Northumberland Coast: Three Days of Castles, from Warkworth to Norham, in Seal-Watching Season

Three-day itinerary along the Northumberland coast (England) in late autumn: Warkworth, Dunstanburgh, Bamburgh, Lindisfarne and Norham

Northumberland Coast: Three Days of Castles, from Warkworth to Norham, in Seal-Watching Season

Five castles between the Coquet and the Tweed, from the Percys’ tower at Warkworth to Norham, painted by Turner, via Bamburgh and the tidal island of Lindisfarne: a three-day itinerary for November, when the Farne Islands’ seal pups are born.

Editorial journal · Carte des Châteaux ·

Northumberland, novembre-décembre

North of Newcastle, the English coast becomes a frontier. For centuries, the Scots came by sea or along the Tweed, and every promontory was crowned with a fortress: the Percys’ stronghold above the Coquet, a rebel earl’s challenge on a basalt headland, a royal citadel on a dolerite crag, a Tudor fort on an island cut off by the tide twice daily, and finally the bishops of Durham’s bastion, facing Scotland. November is an odd time to visit—and that’s precisely why you should. The summer crowds have gone, the low light gilds the sandstone, and between late October and January, more than a thousand grey seal pups are born around the Farne Islands. Three days are enough to travel this coast from south to north, provided you keep an eye on two clocks: the tides and the sun, which sets before 4.30 pm.

Those who shaped the coast

Thomas de Lancastre

vers 1278 - 1322

Grandson of Henry III and cousin of Edward II, he amassed five earldoms and became the kingdom’s most powerful baron. Leader of the opposition to the king and his favourites, he launched the Dunstanburgh project in 1313. Defeated at Boroughbridge in March 1322, he was tried and beheaded near his Pontefract castle.

Henry Percy, 1er comte de Northumberland

1341 - 1408

Warden of the Scottish Marches, made an earl in 1377, he built the great tower at Warkworth. He helped Henry of Lancaster seize the crown in 1399, then turned against him with his son Hotspur, killed at Shrewsbury in 1403. Forever rebellious, he died fighting at Bramham Moor in 1408.

William Armstrong

1810 - 1900

A lawyer turned engineer, inventor of a hydraulic crane and then a breech-loading cannon, he turned Newcastle into a centre of heavy industry. He bought Bamburgh in 1894; he died before the reconstruction was finished in 1904, completed for his heir, his grand-nephew William Watson-Armstrong.

Edwin Lutyens

1869 - 1944

Architect of grand Edwardian country houses, then of New Delhi and London’s Cenotaph, he transformed Lindisfarne’s fort into a holiday home for Edward Hudson between 1901 and 1912. He worked with Gertrude Jekyll, his partner on many projects, who designed the island’s enclosed garden.

Norham Castle, Sunrise, painting by Joseph Mallord William Turner, c. 1845
Norham Castle, Sunrise, c. 1845 (Tate Britain). Turner first visited in 1797 and painted the castle at least six times; in 1831 he confided that this motif had set him on the path to success. — Joseph Mallord William Turner, Wikimedia Commons, domaine public

Before you go

The route on the map

From the Coquet to the Tweed

Five castles from south to north: Warkworth, Dunstanburgh, Bamburgh and Lindisfarne on the coast, then Norham on the Scottish border.

Markers follow the suggested visiting order. Select a castle to open its page.

Sources

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Day by day

The itinerary

1

Day 1 – Warkworth and Dunstanburgh

Morning at the Percys’ castle above the Coquet, then drive to Craster for the two-kilometre coastal walk to Dunstanburgh. Overnight in Craster or nearby.

2

Day 2 – Bamburgh and the Farne Islands

Visit Bamburgh (closed 9–13 November), then a 90-minute cruise from Seahouses around the Farne Islands if conditions allow. Overnight in Bamburgh or Seahouses.

3

Day 3 – Lindisfarne and Norham

Cross to Holy Island according to tide times, visit the castle and Jekyll’s garden, then drive to the Tweed for the final stop at Norham.